• advice

    The Joys of Renting in Dublin

    Two days after we arrived, we signed a yearlong lease for our 1-bedroom apartment in Smithfield (Dublin 7). After all the horror stories I had read about Dublin’s rental crisis (lack of good, affordable apartments; viewings with queues out the door), we were so incredibly relieved to have found an apartment we liked so quickly. We beat out five other interested parties, and our landlord told us we really lucked out in finding a place so soon. If you plan on moving to Dublin and are responsible for finding your own housing, I suggest starting researching ASAP. Having said that, don’t be hasty and agree to a lease or wire…

  • reflections

    Observations: Week 2

    We’re used to getting great deals when buying things in bulk. Not here. Smaller-count items are often cheaper, so it’s worth looking at the unit price when shopping. Guess that’s why Costco doesn’t exist here. The love for crisps in the British Isles is like none other. I like how at the grocery checkout area, a wide range of snack-size bags of crisps are arranged (in the States, it’s usually just candy and gum). #cheeseandonion We’ve done two loads of laundry in the new apartment. It’s still really bizarre having a washing machine right next to the oven. It’s even more bizarre having a washer that’s also a dryer. (Spoiler: Having a…

  • Foie gras pavé with plum, pistachio, and rose at Forest & Marcy
    dublin dishes,  food

    Dublin Dishes: Forest & Marcy

    Dublin Dishes explores our dining experiences throughout the city.  To celebrate our third wedding anniversary yesterday, Steve made dinner reservations at Forest & Marcy in Dublin 4. I had previously interviewed the owners, John and Sandy Wyer, for Eats Abroad, and critics have been raving about this cozy wine bar and kitchen since its opening in 2016. The food was, in a word, impeccable. Plates are available a la carte or you can go for a five-course chef’s tasting menu; we opted for the latter. It was so much food; we were surprised to receive nearly every item on the a la carte menu. Funny enough, the starters stole the…

  • reflections

    Observations: Week 1

    Drivers really do not want to brake for pedestrians. Cross at your own risk. It really doesn’t rain here much. In fact, we absolutely love this weather. It’s perfect for strolling. 50s everyday, yay! None of the doors stay open. On that note, door stoppers are a hot item here. Be prepared to visit several home/hardware stores to find one that actually has them in stock. Sliced bread products have really short lifespans. The freezer will quickly become your best friend. They don’t have seltzer products like Polar or La Croix here, which makes us really sad. The flavored sparkling water beverages here have these weird sweeteners added to them, imparting a…

  • advice,  essentials,  wtf

    WTF?: Opening a Bank Account

    WTF? is a blog series where we look at the processes and events that have made us say “WTF?” during our time in Dublin.    On our third full day here, we opened a checking account (or “current account,” as they say here). I don’t know how difficult it is for a foreigner to open a bank account in the States, but here in Ireland, it sure can be a doozy. Essentially, proof of address in Ireland is required to open a bank account. But it’s not as simple as it sounds. Work permits aren’t valid proof, nor is a signed apartment lease (we tried unsuccessfully with both of these).…

  • Irish breakfast


    “We’re home,” I whispered to my husband with an excited grin as our plane bounced and skidded on the runway at Dublin Airport. He smiled and groggily nodded, exhausted from our 6-hour red-eye flight. This journey marked our third major move since we got engaged in 2013. The first two were cross-country (NYC to Seattle, Seattle to Boston) and with both relocations, it hit us pretty quickly that we were off to a new destination. But for whatever reason—even though we were moving to a new country, a new continent—reality wasn’t really sinking in this time. Not at all. Maybe it was because we had a whirlwind last couple of weeks…